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SAILORS from far away have been
visiting the Guadiana for thousands of years, the first to arrive were
probably the Phoenicians from the eastern Mediterranean, who arrived about
1000 BC, not as conquerors but as merchants bringing with them dyes, fabrics,
ceramics, glass, metals, wine, seeds for crops and olive oil to trade with the
locals. They established a fishing port at Vila Real de Santo Antonio and
ports at Alcoutim and Mértola further up the river.
Almost 1000 years later the Algarve was conquered by Julius Caesar, then as
the Roman Empire receded, early in the 6th century AD the Visigoths invaded
from northern Europe and they too used the Guadiana for transport by boat and
built fortified settlements on the banks of the river. For two hundred years
the Visigoths ruled Portugal from their base at Toledo in Spain, towards the
end of that period they split into two factions and one faction in the south
of Spain and Portugal who had regular contact with Moorish traders from
Morrocco, who had established trading posts far inland as a result of using
the Guadiana for transport, asked for help to defeat the other faction. In 711
a Moorish army crossed the Strait of Gibraltar, landing at Tarifa and with ten
years had conquered most of Spain and Portugal.
For almost 600 years the Guadiana was in regular use by the moors for their
transport and communication inland. By the end of the 13th century the
Portuguese with a lot of help from Crusaders from northern Europe had defeated
the moors and the Guadiana and its ports returned to Portuguese control.
By the 14th century with the Moors also defeated to the east of the Guadiana
the river now became the border between Portugal and Castile. The Castilian
kings attempted to get control of Portugal by both intermarriage and direct
invasion. The Portuguese defended themselves by building impressive castles on
the west bank of the river at Castro Marim and Alcoutim. The imposing castle
built by the moors at Mertola overlooking the river was enlarged and improved
at this time.
In 1755 Vila Real St António was very badly damaged by the tsunami caused by
the earthquake that damaged so much of the Algarve and Lisbon. It was not
until 1774 that, thanks to the enthusiasm and drive of the Marqués de Pombal,
the town was completely re-built a little further inland. He used the very
latest concepts in town planning and created a beautiful town with a central
square known as the Praça Marqués de Pombal which is ringed with lemon trees
and attractive Portuguese symmetric 18th century architecture. Almost all of
the buildings on the west side of the square are now cafés or restaurants with
tables and chairs extending out into the square under modern sunshades making
it a relaxing place to sit and enjoy a coffee, a drink or a meal.
Half way between Alcoutim and Mértola on the east bank of the river where the
Guadiana turns inland towards the northwest and so ceases to be the border
between Spain and Portugal is the very small village of Pomarão which in 1858
became a busy port as a result of a British company starting a mine at São
Domingos 15 km to the north. Mining of gold, silver and copper had taken place
in this area since Roman times, and with the advent of more modern machinery,
between 1885 and 1966, 25 million tons of copper ore were excavated from this
area. The ore was transported by a railway line from the mine to Pomarão where
it was loaded onto ships and taken approximately 45 kilometres down the river
and out to sea to various destinations for processing. Maps of the Guadiana
made prior to 1885 show a ford between Alcoutim and Sanlúcar, the builders of
this ford are not known, it could have been built by the Romans, the Visigoths
or the Moors. It would have been built by filling barges with stone and
sinking them in a long line across the river. With a maximum tidal range of
around three meters it may have only been passable at low water on foot, but
it would have been too shallow for ships laden with copper ore to pass over
safely even at high water, it is therefore assumed that it was removed to
allow their safe passage. There is no record of this, but remains of the ford
extending from Alcoutim about 30 metres across the river are clearly still
there.
The Guadiana is no longer used by commercial river traffic but is still
navigable all the way up to Pomarão and it is safe to anchor anywhere.
Wonderfully beautiful and remote, there are pontoons off Alcoutim, Sanlúcar
and Pomarão and off some smaller villages, some with electricity and water. I
have sailed and motored up many rivers but for me the Guadiana beats them all.
With its steep hills on either side, covered in the spring and summer with
beautiful wild flowers; attractive cottages from a past era now mainly
derelict but a few recently re-built in the traditional style. Small farms
with orange groves, herds of goats tended by shepherds to keep them within the
confines of their unfenced pastures and small fields which you will still
occasionally see being ploughed by a man with a mule and a single furrow
plough.
3000 years since Phoenician sailors first visited the Guadiana it has now
become a popular destination for sailors with yachts from a wide variety of
countries. There is a new marina at Vila Real St Antonio called ‘Porto
Desportivo do Guadiana’ and whilst many visitors to the river may prefer to
anchor and enjoy the solitude up river, the marina has a total of 360 very
inexpensive berths, showers, ice for sale in the reception office, a slipway,
bars and restaurants. There are supermarkets, a chandlery and various
maintenance services close to the marina. Try to arrive at either high or low
water, the tide moves very quickly through the pontoons and maneuvering at any
other time can be difficult. To contact the marina by VHF call them on channel
12. By telephone 281 541571 or 281 513769. By email:
<mailto:anguadiana@mail.telepac.pt>
Reproduced by kind permission of
Martin Northey - Sailing instructor Algarve
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